Slow Pace in a Sandy Gem

Five days in a sandy gem – Tuross Head. Crashing waves, constant breezes and endless skies have ‘cranked’ our mph speed down to just about zero. Fast pace and hurried lives seem far away…as we soak up the easy Australian style. For five days, ‘no worries’ – ‘she’ll be right’ are pretty easy maxims to live by.

Beach walks, wave jumping, picnics and books seem to fill the hours…and Eric and David add fishing to the small list of ‘must do’s’. This morning, Eric caught an Australian salmon, and he and David head out again in the early evening. It’s amazing how tide charts become a part of daily conversation.

To really be in Australia prawns are a necessity...and Eric made sure we had all the necessities...newspaper, sauce, salad and wine - for a fine dinner on the porch! The background of ocean waves and sun lowering in the sky met all Yankee expectations!

However, not all Aussies seem pleased that Yanks have found this spot. Perhaps in jest, they wonder how we learned of Tuross Head and threaten ‘curses’ upon those who led us here. Developers would drool and no one wants any of that!

Monday we head to Canberra for two days in the nation’s capital. We are eager to go to the Art Gallery and National Museum – and to have a small intro to this planned city. However, I think we’ll leave the beach with sand in our shoes.

ADVANCE AUSTRALIA FAIR

Air New Zealand’s flight to Sydney was smooth but = except for our small quartet -there was little enthusiasm for rousing choruses of the national anthem upon touch down. Disappointing for only a few moments.

We cleared customs and taxied to Darling Harbor – where Australia Day was in full swing. Our apartment overlooked the harbor…and settling in quickly left plenty of time to explore. We walked over the harbor bridge and down to the Maritime Museum. – a treasure that requires return visits to fully enjoy.

It was easy to join in Sydney’s celebrations. Top rate planning scheduled activities everywhere…from daylight to dark. At Darling Harbor, boat parades, and schooners filled the harbor, brass bands, singers and dancers performed on the ‘island’ stage, and Aussies streamed onto the multiple wharfs. “Ned Kelleys’ on stilts celebrated this “Aussie” Robin Hood and Sydney Nolan the artist who created his modern ‘face’. Needless to say, “jumping roos’ added to the fun.

In the evening, we walked to Chinatown for a fabulous Sichuan dinner before fireworks over the harbor. Views from the 6^th floor apartment were perfect!

In the morning, it was pack up and off the car rental. McFerrans pack a lot of stuff and somehow, it all fit in. We drove out of Sydney suburbs and down the coast to Tuross Head…through eucalyptus forests, cattle and sheep farms, and along wonderful coastal bays.

The picnic at Jervis Bay was terrific but the large kangaroo jumping across the field was even better. Jean and David promise more ‘roos’ over the next days.

Our cottage borders a wonderful beach…and having ‘loaded up’ on groceries, we settled in. Crashing waves, beach breezes, wide stretches of sand…and the Australian Open on the telie…a perfect evening!

In the morning, the ‘locals’ knew we had arrived…as lorikeet parrots stopped by to check out our breakfast on the porch. In the afternoon, sun, sand, and dips in the breaking waves! In the evening, Eric and David took their fishing gear to the beach...and this morning, just where they had been walking, a giant kangaroo hopped across the sand.

We're in Australia!

Top of the South Island and Coastal Return

In Marlborough country, rainy skies did not dismay and we set off to a WWI era aeronautical museum near a local air field. Peter Jackson’s vision and funding restored early airplanes and many British and German models. It was fascinating and creepy to see a short film of the Red Baron’s departure for his last flight followed by a formal Aussie ‘field’ burial.

Joining Nancy, Cecil, Leslie and Carl for dinner at a Picton harbor restaurant was both a high and low…how super again to be with such wonderful folk – and how sad to know that miles and oceans separate us soon. Many times to skype ahead!

The next morning, our B&B host offered lemons from his trees and we happily tucked them into the car. Before leaving Marlborough, we clambered up the ‘hill’ overlooking Blenheim for a ‘360’ view before heading to Kaikora.

Rain and grey skies do not diminish the splendid coastline…and spotting seals was the focus. The ‘full feed’ of fish and chips could not have been better and the lemonade was superb! Kaikora will always be a part of Eric’s heart and in the morning, we stopped where Eric and his family had summered…just two hours north of Christchurch.

A wonderful welcome awaited us as we settled back into Eric’s hometown. Dinner at Dave and Joyce’s home was ‘five star’ and a delight to spend an evening with Eric’s sister and Adrienne Stewart. It was also a chance to practice “Advance Australia Fair”. With plans to arrive in Sydney on Australia Day, Eric wanted us ‘ready’ to burst into song upon ‘touch down’ at the airport. Adrienne had made a quick call to her brother in Australia to obtain the words.

In the morning, it was time for the buskers..as the festival in the city had just begun.. Twisted Brass and Kiwi Blue Grass were favorites plus wanders to the Art Gallery and Christchurch Museum.

In early evening, we headed to Brian’s for an evening of good fun and dinner with the chef. Lots of conversation, laughter and ‘figuring’ created a wonderful meal, chances to skype, and plans for Brian’s next trip north. Monday came round and we headed to Christchurch beaches – Sumner, Lyttelton Harbor, and Corsair and Governor’s Bay. The city put on its best sunshine for our last afternoon.

Tuesday, it was an early wake up for our flight to Sydney.

Heading to Marlboough

Wednesday morning and the 'Gang of Six' headed off - Marianne and Willi to Christchurch and on to Sydney, Los Angeles and Nashville; Jean, David, Helen and Eric to Blenheim via morning tea with Auntie Joy, the Queen Charlotte Drive and Picton. Seven days had suddenly disappeared with photos and memories of adventures, explores and fabulous meals. It's been feast time for green lipped mussels and salmon.

Eric again at the wheel headed to Nelson and a morning visit with Auntie Joy, Adrienne, and Barry. After a few 'loop de loops' to find their address, we discovered their home high in the hills overlook paddocks and fields. Auntie Joy's cottage was nearby. Sausage rolls and fresh blue berry muffins were irresistible temptations and conversation delved into church issues and David's focus on the politics of the South China Sea. When we are 92, we want to be just like Auntie Joy - informed, inquisitive, and eager to delve.

After a wonderful tour of Barry's figueroa trees and garden, we headed to Blenheim via a stop at the Pelurus Bridge - to check out the swimmers, the Mussel Pot for lunch and the Queen Charlotte Sound Drive. Almost at the top, we stopped and scrambled up trails to a lookout over the Sound...spectacular! Back in the car and off to Blenheim via Picton. Stopping at an outlook, we had a wonderful view of logs - lots of them - being loaded at the port. It was a scene to delight the 'two year old boy' in all of us.

In the evening, Cecil and Nancy joined us for a barbecue at our B&B. We took full advantage of being in Marlborough country!

Making the Most of Motueka

Six folk, seven days…and all eager to make the most of Motueka. Mixing and matching activities was easy – Marianne and Willi won the ‘most active’ award with long demanding bike rides up into the hills, an all day trek at Abel Tasman Park and a long explore of Nelson’s museum, cathedral, high hills and ice cream store – the Penuino. Jean and David explored the nooks and crannies of Motueka…small shops, churches and neighborhoods, and Eric and Helen had long visits with friends and family.

It was ‘memory lane’ time for Eric. Friday, a visit with Robyn and Graham Venning at their home high in the Richmond Hills was a wonderful trip down ‘memory lane’. Graham and Eric grew up in Christchurch and began their careers at the NZ Tourist Board. Waves of laughter followed stories of boyhood antics.

A mini high school reunion, Saturday, took us further down ‘the lane’. Cecil and Nancy Wong flew down from Auckland and others came from nearby Nelson and Picton ‘Christchurch West’ gathered at the Gregg’s home above Stephen Bay– and five alums went back in time. High School ‘masters’ tolerated no shenanigans…and Eric shared his story of misdemeanors at the school’s Tuck Shop. In the evening, Cecil and Nancy joined the Rosenbergs and McFs for dinner at the RSA – a national service organization that honors veterans.

Sunday, it was lunch with Auntie Joy and her family. West Coast relatives and summer days with them are among Eric’s favorite memories of growing up. It was a treat to spend a long afternoon with them. Auntie Joy – at 92 – is sharp as a tack…and her daughters made clear she has a determined mind of her own – perhaps a family trait? Before departing, Eric ‘visited’ the llamas in the paddocks. Alpaca anyone?

Monday, the Rosenbergs and McFs headed to Collingwood and the Farewell Spit…the northern most strip of the South Island. Heading north, the road bordered the Kahurangi and Abel Tasman National Parks and then hugged the Golden Bay coastline. We stopped at the beach in Collingwood for a ‘cuppa' tea beneath a towering Pohutukawa tree – a holiday favorite that flowers red by Christmas.

Off again, we drove to the Farewell Spit and trekked through paddocks to the sand dunes. The sand was hot hot and the beach wide and fabulous. “First toes” defined the water as icy…but no matter to Dave and Eric, they plunged in with gusto and a seal later popped his head their way to check out ‘the visitors’. Soon it was time for a beach picnic and the drive back.

Tuesday, we all headed to Marihau and Kaiteriteri….Marianne and Willi, ever fearless, on their bikes…and the Rosenbergs and McFs by car. Long winding roads took us to an access point to the Abel Tasman Park and on to the beach at Kaiteriteri where families relaxed, and played – and David and Eric swam.

It’s our last afternoon in Motueka…David and Eric are fishing at the wharf, and there is a ‘back up’ plan of salmon from the market. It has been a wonderful week.

To Motueka and the Rosenbergs

Gorgeous morning on Cape Foulwind…and we were off to Westport. A good stop for internet at the library and on to the pier…where Eric and his dad cast for fish and eels ‘when he was a lad’. A walkabout town and off to the high hills.

Gold and coal brought early wealth to New Zealand’s west coast…and we headed to a picnic at the site of the Denniston coal mine and its loading stations – last used fifty years ago. Traaces of ‘hard lives’ were everywhere. Miners worked high above and coal cars were loaded on down hill.tracks. Imagine the hydraulic brakes needed for safety. The winter weather must have been horrific and conditions in the small settlement were too dangeoous for the school inspector to venture up the track.

An afternoon walk along Cape Foulwind was the perfect balance. Stopping at outlooks to check out beaches, seals, and the lighthouse, we walked along coastal cliffs. Dinner at the Bay Café capped a wonderful day.

Next morning we were off to Motueka and the Rosenbergs – due to arrive on the Naked Bus. We drove inland by the Buller River…and stopped at the longest swing bridge in New Zealand. Marianne, Willi and Eric sprinted across but there was too much swing for H.

Arriving at Motueka we checked into our apartment and checked out the Rosenberg’s arrival time. They traveled north from Christchurch on the Naked Bus – an actual company that drives (clothed passengers) along the Pacific coastline to Nelson and Picton. We picked them up at Motueka. What a trip they had had. Their busdriver, unloading luggage, had tripped and fallen backwards off the bus. Badly injured, he was taken by ambulance to the local hospital…while bus drivers – from competing companies – stepped in to help the passengers. In contrast, the Rosenbergs had traveled from Middlebury, Washington DC, Istanbul Canberra, and Christchurch without a glitch. It was very good to see them and to have the three Smithies together.

A barbecue by Tasman Bay was an easy end to the day. The next morning, Marianne and Willi rented bicycles to head on a 40 km trek in the hills. Jean and Helen tramped into town to find the market (okay, we got a little lost along the way)…and Eric and David extended the local explores. Green lipped mussels and salmon before sunset – life is good!

Saturday morning, Marianne and Willi took kayaks out in the bay for an explore and David and Eric cast for fish directly in front of the apartment. It’s easy to make use of the long hours of sunshine.

Off to Cape Foulwind …Captain Cook named it!

The next morning, there were hints of sun and Eric took an early peek at Lake Matheson just as the clouds lifted. By 8 am, we were off to the Glacier. Road crews with heavy lifting equipment had worked long hours to return the roads to ‘Open’…and we were happy to be among the first for the day to visit the Glacier. A short hike…and we were there. Unlike glaciers in North America, its configuration has changed but not receded continually. It glimmered blue/green in the morning sun.

Back in the car and north to Okarito – a breeding ground for herons. We stopped at the pier of an old cabin and there on a sandbar was a white heron – waiting for us. It was picture perfect. Back in the car and north to Whataroa to visit Kereama Armstrong, a Maori carver, whom Donna Thomas, Eric’s former business partner, and he had met years ago. Kerema …a ka a Lou…has been designated the best Maori carver in New Zealand and his work in whale bone attests to the award.

Time for a picnic on the beach in Hoikita and a walkabout the town…to find wonderful bread, a bank, and the required ‘ice creams’. We drove up coast – snapping pictures as we headed north…and we stopped at Greymouth to walk on the river wall – constructed in the 1990’s to protect the town from flooding.

Our next destination was Punakaiki – pancake rocks and blow holes. Rocks seem to stack up along the coast and the power of erosion is evident as the sea crashes in among the blow holes. Walkways and vistas provide super photo ops!

And on we drove to Cape Fowlwind to find our beyond wonderful HomeStay. The property sets at the end of the peninsula with tremendous views of ‘sun up and sun down’. Nearby is a pub where we walked for dinner followed by a wander to see the sun set by the beach. Accompanying us was Meg, a puppy from the pub who greatly enjoyed the extended frolic. The winds hint at what Cook might have meant.

Finding Fox Glacier

Packing up Saturday morning, it was hard to say good bye to Betty and John Turnbull (at The Milestone B&B), our Queenstown hosts who thoroughly welcomed and spoiled us. We headed north for 230 miles from the Southern Lakes area to the West Coast.

We drovestraight up – or so it seemed – along the Crown Range on the way to Lake Wanaka. Mountain peaks surround the lake; we stopped for a walk and short explore…before continuing on to find the fishing hole on the Clutha River. Willi spotted the ‘big one’ and Eric got out his gear. The conditions were perfect for Eric and the fish…both left happy.

On we went towards the Haast Pass – that cuts through the Mt. Aspiring National Park with stunning views of the Southern Alps. We stopped for a hike through thick bush where beech trees towered and native birds called brightly as we passed. Next stop was the Blue Pools – a New Zealand “Must See”. A short hike led to swing bridges that cross at the confluence of the Young and Haast Rivers. What a treasure of a sight!

Returning to the car, we continued north. Surrounding peaks with ribbons of waterfalls rose through the clouds. The clouds lowered as we drove north…and our first sight of the Tasman was misty. We arrived at our motel at Lake Matheson- Fox Glacier just as the rain began.

West Coast rains are ‘signature’ events. Lightning, thunder and wind easily made ‘horizontal’ rain possible throughout the night. In the morning, still raining, we lingered over breakfast.

It was going to be a ‘lazy day’ with the roads we had just traveled closed off to the South and the roads to Franz Joseph Glacier and its nearby town isolated by flooding and rock slides. The West Coast really has perfected Rain.

Queenstown….in the center of spectacular…

Dunedin to Queenstown….a drive of changing landscapes and beauty. Hillsides and mountains rose beside us. The sun was bright and the air dry. Sadly, we passed through one small town where a spontaneous fire had erupted on the hillside and challenged firefighters through the night. Orchards came into view as we approached Alexandra…a large town and a produce capital. The Remarkables, towering peaks, came into view as we neared Queenstown.

Eric had found a beyond wonderful B&B for our stay. John and Betty Trumbull have transformed large pastures into eye boggling gardens and a wonderful B&B. Adjacent to the main house is a stone cottage where we stay. Betty had designed the cottage and home – from beginning to end – from architectural design to last drape – and John had designed and planted the gardens: all spectacular -waterfalls, sitting areas, views of the mountains and even bee hives!

In the afternoon, we drove to the airport to pick up Marianne and Willi who arrived from Christchurch. The next morning, our explore began. With Eric as tour guide, the day would be busy. Our first stop was the Shotover River where many tourists enjoy jet boat adventures and then up to Coronet Peak, the highest ski field overlooking Queenstown. The road was windy as we climbed.

On to Millbrook, a luxurious lodge, and to Arrowtown, an old gold mining town and one of Peter Jackson’s favorite locations. We looked for hobbits everywhere and recognized ‘Lord of the Rings’ locations. Walking by the river, we watched tourists panning for gold and began to count native birds.

Many artists live in Arrowtown and it was a special treat to visit again with Peter Beadle, Peter and our B&B host John had been high school mates…and later neighbors. Everyone seems to know everyone down here.

Back to the stone cottage for dinner. It was the first mixed doubles night! Willi and Helen prepared…well actually, Willi created and cooked, and washed up. The next morning, with sandwiches packed, we were off to Glenorchy. Driving by Pig and Pigeon Islands, we stopped along rivers and lakes, and checked out ‘fishing’ spots. After a walkabout in town, we headed to the Routeburn, one of the world’s Top 10 classic hikes -over the swing bridge, and off for a walk through thick greenery and winding trails. Six foot ferns bordered the trails and moss-covered trees twisted behind. Peter Jackson didn’t create his scenery…he just filmed it. About four, we headed back to Queenstown, and stopped at Bob’s Cove for the driver/fisherman. The wind picked up and the fishing looked tentative so we headed home for the next round of ‘mixed doubles’….delicious!

Wednesday, Willi and Marianne headed to Wanaka for a long mountain trek, while Eric visited the dentist. She was professional, attractive, conservative in her recommendations and blonde – all aspects of the visit brought smiles to the patient! The appointment shorter than expected, we had a wonderful day ahead to explore Queenstown. – The Botanical Gardens bordering Lake Wakatipu, two hours of lawn bowls with ‘hot tips’ from the locals, a visit with Eric’s godson and family, a ‘walkabout’ town, lunch, a few games of darts, and a climb up to the gondola. The weather was beginning to pack in so we headed back to the cottage. Willi and Marianne returned home in early evening after a wonderful day of hiking – and just a little rain as they approached their return to Queenstown.

Wine tasting Thursday and a stop at the A.J. Hackett Bungey Jumping Center. It was bustling with prospective jumpers and a lot of ‘audience’. The harnessing was impressive yet many jumpers seemed to look panic stricken. Huge cheers for the jumpers as the leaped…and the sidelines suited us just fine. Leaving Queenstown, we rose through desert hills and ‘dry Western’ landscapes to stop wineries – Olsen, Akarua, and Carrick. What a treat – and the first also was a Cheeserie…with tastings and a shop available. The shop ‘s motto was clearly that age only matters if one is a cheese. The wine sampling was delicious and each winery distinct. Our designated driver – NZ laws are extremely strict and make the roads as safe as possible – was very patient and enjoyed the stunning landscapes.

Back to the cottage for dinner…and then a look about town. Queenstown in midsummer is the hub of adventure traveling: jet boating, rafting, canyoning, parasailing, and on and on. At the end of the day, the athletes seem to be as tired as the ‘older set’. The streets were very quiet.

Tomorrow, we head to the Fox Glacier….

Dunedin Doings

Packed, picnic baskets brimming, big hugs with family, and we were off to Dunedin. Best in New Zealand not to make the journey a ‘straight arrow’, but to stop along the way to explore and wonder at the beauty. First stop – the Moeraki Boulders – large boulders that dot the sand…and a coffee at the coastal café. Then on to Caroline Bay – in Timaru where it was time for a picnic by the sea and a walk on the new boardwalk.

Next, Omauru…a port city built on the wealth of gold mines, farming and freezer works. Sand stone buildings bring to mind London Streets and New York’s financial district. The next morning, we continued to Dunedin.

South Island weather defines ‘changeable’. As we drove south, the weather changed and changed again. Sunshine, gale winds, hale, rain, sunshine, gale winds, hale rain…we arrived at our apartment in sheets of rain…right by the sea.

The hale bounced off the front deck..and ocean skies were black. Picture windows everywhere looked out at the Pacific…and it was perfect. Brian arrived from Christchurch – with chilly bins packed – and Eric picked Lauren and Sam up at the train station.

After 3 magical days in Queenstown, Sam and Lauren had taken the Taieri Gorge, a vintage train from central Otago to Dunedin. The next morning, the Dunedin explore began.

First stop, the train station – location of New Zealand’s Sports Hall of Fame: an hour to spend with runners, net ball players, golfers, long distance runners, and cricket players – and a chance for learning and memory lane. Then the Otago Museum…

The museum features history, culture and paleontology…plus a Butterfly Exhibit – humid and alive with hundreds of varieties. Waterfalls, large plants and trees allowed butterflies to flutter and even ‘hitchhiked’ among the visitors. A ‘hitchhiker’ check was needed before we departed.

Off to a picnic at the University…and on to the Chinese Gardens. In 2008. Dunedin opened a Chinese Garden, a gift of its sister city Shangai. The garden had been constructed. taken apart and shipped south where it was rebuilt. The garden is transformative; enter it and leave the city bustle behind. It was a wonderful meander.

A nap – and time for New Year’s Eve. Dinner at a local restaurant…and a celebration at the Octagon – the city square right below Robby Burns’ statue. The police corded off the area – so that all ages could enjoy the music and fireworks. After midnight, we returned to walk on the esplanade. A lone piper played by the sea….a Scottish beginning to ’10 .

Next morning, spotted shags, fur seals and black back seagulls were the destination. We drove over the hills to the end of the peninsula. There was a wonderful albatross exhibit at the nature station…and wild life all about – in brilliant sunshine. Driving back, Sam spotted signs to a local Marae, a Maori meeting house. The detour was a treat. We stopped outside the Marae – a church and meeting house. To avoid disrespect, we took pictures from the road but were delighted when an elderly Maori asked if we would like to walk on the grounds. The church was constructed in 1940. Behind the church were the local burial grounds – where tomb stones told the stories of many chiefs, their families, and early relationships with the British. The cemetery looked out on pastoral fields and the sea.

We returned for a long wander along the coastline…where we found a enormous brown fur seal relaxing on the stony beach. To him, it seemed a fluffy mattress…but he was quite fluffy himself.

Sam and Lauren interspersed long runs about the neighborhood…up hills that allowed Pacific views from many vantage points. The chef and sous chef created and the kitchen staff created to make wonderful meals and all too soon, it was time for packing.

Mind you, Eric’s family had sent us well equipped with culinary delights and full picnic gear – plus samplings of New Zealand’s finest chardonnays and Savignon Blancs. It took a bit to load the car and tuck it back in the garage.

In the morning, we all were up early to make sandwiches and head out – Brian, Sam and Lauren to Christchurch, and Eric and I to Queenstown. We are so fortunate to have shared this wonderful explore and time together.